Ascension and technical
Huascarán South Expedition 6768 Masl.
Huascarán South mountain, known as Mataraju by the local inhabitants, is the highest mountain in the Peruvian Andes, with an official altitude of 6757 m.a.s.l. according to the last measurement in 2017. It is the most requested mountain by hikers worldwide because it is the third highest mountain in America after Aconcagua in Argentina and Ojos del Salado in Chile. To climb this mountain, it is necessary to have good experience and knowledge of technical climbing and technical equipment; it is also recommended to complete a few days of acclimation before starting the expedition.
Day 01. Huaraz – Musho (3500 Masl) – Moraine Camp (4800 Masl)
At 6:00 am, transfer from Huaraz to Musho where you can take the opportunity to have breakfast and then start the ascent to the Huascarán moraine camp at 4,800 masl. This day the path leads us all uphill in a zigzag until reaching the moraine camp; from the camp, you can enjoy a phenomenal sunset view of the towns in the Callejón de Huaylas. The day's ascent takes about 7 to 8 hours. Dinner and rest for the next day.
Day 02. Moraine Camp (4800 Masl) – Camp I (5450 Masl)
At 9:00 am, after breakfast, the ascent from Moraine Camp to Camp I at 5,380 masl begins. After about 2 and a half hours on the moraine, the glacier starts for another 2 hours until we reach the camp to rest and enjoy the beautiful reddish sunset. The day's ascent takes approximately 4 to 5 hours. At the camp, dinner and rest in the early hours of the afternoon to leave very early the next day for Camp II.
Day 03. Camp I (5450 Masl) – Camp II (5980 Masl)
At 4:00 am, we have coffee or hot infusions to start the ascent from Camp I to Camp II at 5,980 masl. This ascent takes about 6 to 7 hours. It is recommended to leave in the early morning hours this day to pass early through the section called the 'Canaleta' route. After passing this risky route, we reach the camp. From Camp II, we will enjoy an incredible view of the Callejón de Huaylas valley and the Cordillera Negra. Dinner and sleep to leave for the summit the next morning.
Day 04. Camp II (5980 Masl) – Huascarán Summit (6768 Masl)
Ascent day at 1:00 am. We have hot drinks and then start the ascent toward the summit of Huascarán South 6768 masl via the normal route, always passing between cracks and ice cornices during the climb. Routes in the Andes can change from one day to the next; we cannot predict exact information regarding the ascent or climbing paths. From the top, you enjoy the beautiful view of the Peruvian Andes. After photos and videos, return to Camp II where the porters wait for us with a delicious hot soup to replenish energy; today's expedition takes approximately 12 to 13 hours.
Day 05. Camp II (5980 Masl) – Moraine Camp (4800 Masl)
Very early this day, we have breakfast to take advantage and pass the risky route called 'Canaleta' around 6:30 am. Once we pass this gully, we descend calmly to the moraine camp. This day the descent takes about 7 to 8 hours. Dinner and overnight stay for the last night of the expedition at the camp.
Day 06. Moraine Camp (4800 Masl) – Musho (3500 Masl) – Huaraz - Hotel
At 7:00 am, we have breakfast to descend from the moraine camp to Musho. Here, the transport awaits us for the return transfer to the city of Huaraz and the hotel.
What’s Included
- Company staff waiting at the bus terminal and transfer to the hotel in Huaraz
- Expedition information at the Huaraz office
- Transfer from Huaraz to Musho and back
- Mountain guide for Huascarán mountain ascent
- Cook authorized by PNH.
- Porters to carry equipment to the Huascarán high camp
- Full meals during the expedition; breakfast, snack, and dinner
- All camping equipment
- PNH entrance tickets.
- Personal tent
- Rope
- Snow stakes
- All personal utensils
- Kitchen and gas
- Basic first aid kit
- We comply with biosafety protocols
Not Included
- Airfare tickets
- Hotels in Lima and Huaraz
- Meals in cities
- Extra porter to carry your personal equipment
- Sleeping bag and mat (pad)
- All personal technical expedition equipment
- Mountain accident insurance
- Personal tips for expedition staff
- Others not described in the package.
Recommended Gear
- 50L daypack
- Sleeping bag and mat
- Helmet
- Cold weather hat
- Sun hat
- Snow goggles
- Sunscreen
- Down jacket
- Waterproof jacket
- Thermal shirts
- Waterproof pants
- Thermal pants
- Snow gloves
- Locking carabiners
- Slings of different sizes
- A descender
- Harness
- A pair of technical ice axes
- A pair of snow boots
- A pair of crampons
- A 70 L backpack to carry your things
- A descender
- Locking carabiners
Booking Conditions
We recommend making a reservation in advance to ensure a better price for you. Prices may vary according to the reservation date and the number of people. After we have reached an agreement on the total expedition price for each program we offer, you may book with a 40% deposit of the total agreed sum for the services.
This reservation will cover the following:
- Securing your spot for the scheduled date.
- Making transfer ticket reservations for Lima - Huaraz / Huaraz - Lima.
- Making hotel reservations for the scheduled dates of your arrival in Lima and Huaraz, according to the itinerary.
- Making reservations for guides, assistants, and/or staff for the scheduled date.
The remaining 60% will be paid in Huaraz after you have checked into your hotel. To begin the organization of your expeditions, please contact us for more information.
There are 02 rescue units in Huaraz
- National Police Rescue Squadron, based in the city of Yungay (very close to Huascarán mountain). Phone numbers: 043-493292 / 043-493333. They also have 02 helicopters available.
- Casa de Guías Rescue Unit, based in the city of Huaraz (Parque Ginebra s/n). The rescue cost must be budgeted beforehand, and if a helicopter is required, it will also be necessary to pay for the service in advance. Website: agmp.pe
For more information, please contact us.
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